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It started like any other day. And yet, as the photos will show, everything shifted. Missouri and Illinois had their own rhythm, but crossing into Tennessee and Arkansas? A whole new story unfolded. And to my future son-in-law Hayden, born and bred in Kentucky, I owe you an apology. I didn’t give your home state its due. That said, the sliver of Kentucky that brushes the Mississippi… there’s potential there. Promise. As we near the end of our journey down the upper Mississipp

It’s hard to believe we’ve been aboard Hazel for two weeks. In some ways, it feels like we just waved goodbye to Lake City. In others, particularly if you rank time by scent, it feels like we’ve been living on this boat far too long. Last night brought a small but mighty victory: we fixed the inverter! That means we’re back online and can finally use our regular household items that require AC power and do not rely on 12V. Barge traffic has picked up, and so has the scale. To

Thursday kicked off with another stellar breakfast courtesy of camp chef Peter Darula: eggs, hot dogs, and grilled chili peppers. Honestly, it doesn’t get much better when you’re launching into a day that might test every ounce of planning and patience. But before we dive into today’s adventure, let’s rewind a bit. You may have noticed the photo count has dropped. That’s thanks to a perfect storm of electrical hiccups and cord casualties. Hazel’s inverter, our magical device

We will start with a few highlights to kick off today’s diary, then get down to business. Around Red Wing on our stretch of the Mississippi, the wing dams stay submerged and rarely make an appearance. But further south, they’re a different story, larger, clearly visible, and safely out of the way. You’ll never accidentally run over one down there, which I really appreciate. I know, I know, I keep saying no more house photos. But credit where it’s due: I admire a man who build

The day kicked off on a high note, Peter whipped up a delicious breakfast of eggs and spicy sausage. It was the perfect fuel for whatever the river had in store for us. After we cast off and continued downriver, we passed the welcoming city of Clarksville, Missouri. One of the photos shows the walking dam, and another captures a simple, lovely riverfront home just beyond town. I’ve always admired a well-kept lawn, and this one was a beauty. It’s the kind of place anyone could

If you recall, the last photo set captured our final sunset in Fort Madison. Now, we greet day seven with a fresh sunrise over the same waters, new light, new stories. Capturing wind in a photo is nearly impossible, but if you look closely at the lower right corner above the BNG instrument, you’ll see the evidence: we faced a steady 20 to 25 knots of wind dead on the bow, which made progress painfully slow. Day seven began with heavy wave chop and sizable swells. South of For

Shouldn’t sailors always check the weather? I’ve checked the forecast more often from my living room than I have aboard Hazel, but that’s about to change. This morning, Peter and I paid the price for our oversight. With the butterfly hatch wide open, port holes ajar, and the companionway inviting in fresh air, we thought we’d engineered the perfect breeze. Instead, we woke to a full-blown indoor rainstorm. The cabin was soaked. Lesson learned: ventilation is great until the s

A few of you have been curious about what life is really like aboard Hazel, so today, we're pulling back the curtain and giving you a peek into her glamorous underbelly. Known as the " Quart Berth," - This is Paul's sleeping nook This is the original hanging locker in the quarter berth, now cleverly repurposed into an electrical hub. It houses essential components like the inverter, solar charge controllers, and other key systems that keep Hazel running smoothly. This is wher

We began the day threading our way through a gauntlet of bridges, four in total, each spanning 60 to 64 feet, and one lock, all within the first 90 minutes. It was a high-stress, high-coordination morning. At Lock & Dam 15, the lock master was a marvel of efficiency. He opened the gates, locked us through, signaled the highway to close, and swung the traffic bridge open. I’m fairly certain he even phoned ahead to the railroad swing bridge, which opened just as we approached.

Day 5 began on a high note. Both of us slept deeply and woke refreshed. We departed around 7:15 AM and the morning quickly turned into a series of riverine adventures. First came Lock and Dam 13 followed by two swing railroad bridges and four of those deceptive “not so high high bridges.” We couldn’t get the operator of the first railroad swing bridge to respond. No radio reply, no movement. After repeated attempts we contacted Port Operations at L&D 13 who gave us his direct

Today was a good one, nearly 11 hours of travel, from the first light of sunrise to the last glow of dusk. We dropped anchor just north of Savannah, Illinois, a peaceful spot that’s shaping up to be a solid anchorage. Last night’s was great too, so we’re on a lucky streak. Along the way, we passed Galena, one of Crystal’s favorite towns. Even from the water, its charm was unmistakable, a sweet little highlight in a long day. The biggest victory? We didn’t run aground! That mi

This is where Dubuque’s wealthiest residents live. The homes reminded me of the bluff top where we live, the sweeping views, the generous lots, but these? They’re on a whole other scale. Easily six times the size of the houses on her bluff. They’re not just homes… they’re castles. Dubuque itself is a city steeped in history and charm. Nestled along the Mississippi River, it’s known as the “Masterpiece on the Mississippi” and was founded by French-Canadian fur trader Julien Du

We arrived in Cassville, Wisconsin on Day Three after a series of notable events. The number three has become a theme.. Hazel ran aground three times already. While it might seem unlikely, low river levels make it surprisingly easy to misjudge depth. On the upside, those same low levels have made bridge clearance much simpler. Today we passed under a 61-foot bridge with minimal clearance. We have five bridges of that height to navigate, so precision is key. Fortunately, we’re

We kicked off Day One with a 9:00 a.m. departure from port, marking the official start of our journey. Saying goodbye to Mom was a bit emotional, but spirits were high as we looked ahead to the adventure unfolding. Not long after we got underway, our autopilot decided to quit on us. Thankfully, we managed to troubleshoot and repair it while en route an early win for the crew. Later in the day, we attempted our first anchoring as a team. We thought we had it set just right, an

San Diego, CA A Poem About Sailing Upon the crest of waves I glide, With sails unfurled, my heart my guide. The wind, a whisper, calls my...