Buoys & Bridges: Day 5 on the Mississippi

Day 5 began on a high note. Both of us slept deeply and woke refreshed. We departed around 7:15 AM and the morning quickly turned into a series of riverine adventures. First came Lock and Dam 13 followed by two swing railroad bridges and four of those deceptive “not so high high bridges.”

We couldn’t get the operator of the first railroad swing bridge to respond. No radio reply, no movement. After repeated attempts we contacted Port Operations at L&D 13 who gave us his direct phone number. One groggy call later the bridge finally opened and we continued toward the lock.

Then came my Matthew Olson moment. For context my nephew Matt is forever etched in family lore for two things: assault with a malt (yes really) and plowing into a buoy on the Mississippi with our beautiful speedboat. Well Matt I’ve joined the club. I hit a buoy that was hard to see and poorly placed. Thankfully it just grazed Hazel’s side and bounced off a bumper. Still I now understand your embarrassment. Peter won’t let me forget it.

We spent the next 20 minutes doing slow circles while a train crossed another swing bridge. This time the operator was communicative and kind. A rare treat among the notoriously grumpy bridge crew.

After passing the S and Northwest train bridge our electronic charts pointed us down a questionable fork. It looked rocky and risky so we trusted our eyes and chose a different channel. Good call. The charted route was littered with rock piles. Lesson learned. Charts are helpful but instincts and eyeballs win the day.

In a moment of domestic triumph Peter washed some clothes. It’s only Day 5 but the cabin had begun cultivating a signature scent.

We’ve now squeaked under 16 bridges each one a heart thumping experience. Bridge heights range from 60 to 65 feet based on “normal pool” which is anything but normal. Some locks hold back water for commerce others don’t. Hazel’s mast with antenna stands at 60 feet. Today we passed under a 60 footer with our VHF antenna brushing spider webs off the underside. Yikes.

We hadn’t realized how many high voltage lines span the river. They’re charted yes but without elevation data. Some hang as low as 62 feet and swing bridges often have their own dangerously low lines. With our mast up and the river rocking each crossing demands precision and nerves of steel.

While we’ve dodged overhead disasters the riverbed’s been less forgiving. We’ve run aground five times in five days all in water charted at over 10 feet deep. Thankfully each grounding was gentle and Mississippi mud is merciful. Between scraping the sky and kissing the bottom we’ll take the mud any day.

We’ve just passed through Lock and Dam 14. Halfway through the 28 functioning L&Ds on the Mississippi. Cue the celebratory horn.