Hazel: Slow Tugs & Small Town Sundays

The day kicked off on a high note, Peter whipped up a delicious breakfast of eggs and spicy sausage. It was the perfect fuel for whatever the river had in store for us.

After we cast off and continued downriver, we passed the welcoming city of Clarksville, Missouri. One of the photos shows the walking dam, and another captures a simple, lovely riverfront home just beyond town. I’ve always admired a well-kept lawn, and this one was a beauty. It’s the kind of place anyone could settle into and feel content: modest, peaceful, and perfectly placed by the water.

Photos never quite do justice to wave size or whitecaps; they always look smaller than they feel. We were sailing through steady 20 to 25 knot winds, with gusts topping 35 knots, that’s about 40 miles per hour. It was wild out there. Hazel rose to the challenge, setting a new speed record with both Peter and me taking turns at the helm. I didn’t think she’d break 7 knots, but she proved us wrong.

Despite the wind, the sky was stunning, an endless blue canvas scattered with brilliant white clouds. Their beauty made the river feel more peaceful, a reminder of how simple moments can elevate the day.

This is one of the rare stretches along the river where limestone bluffs plunge straight into the water, essentially sheer cliffs carved by the river itself into a natural canal. I’ve never seen anything like it in our part of the Mississippi.

Today’s progress was at the mercy of our favorite tug, the Crimson Glory. She held us up at two locks for over four hours. Peter and I tried to anchor, but the wind had other plans, so we ended up doing slow-motion circles, waiting... and waiting... and waiting.

The silver lining: we made it through Lock 25. Just two more locks remain in the entire system, both scheduled for tomorrow. By this time tomorrow, we’ll have passed through every single lock from the start of the Mississippi to St. Louis.

Along the way, we’ve seen countless charming river towns, each one a little Red Wing in its own way. It’s the kind of beauty we wish everyone could experience firsthand.

The Mississippi truly earns its place among the world’s seven great waterways. It’s been a gift to travel her nearly to St. Louis. We’ve picked up plenty of lessons, some technical, some personal. Peter’s mastered patience; I’m still working on tolerance. Progress, in more ways than one.