Sunshine, Strategy, & Lots of Photos.

The morning greeted us with grace, no wind, no chop, just a glassy river and golden light as we passed the charming town of Natchez, Mississippi. Hazel was eager to stretch her legs, and we obliged with nearly 11 hours of downstream travel. She handled it beautifully.

If you recall, we’re working a four-day strategy to navigate New Orleans safely. Today marked Stage One: complete. Tonight, we begin refining the timing and logistics for days two through four. It’s a puzzle of anchorages, daylight, and marina slips, but we’re determined to solve it.

Now, a little river trivia: ever noticed those tall poles on the front of lead barges? They’re called range poles, and they’re essential for towboat pilots. Positioned high above the deck, often with reflective tape or flags, they help the pilot, who may be hundreds of feet back in the wheelhouse, see exactly where the flotilla’s bow is in relation to the channel or lock walls. Simple, brilliant, and vital.

We also spent time today drafting Hazel’s next mission checklist: the Gulf crossing from Mobile to Panama. This isn’t about snacks or sunscreen, it’s mechanical spares, repairs, and upgrades to ensure she’s ocean-ready. Top of the list: an offshore life raft and a ditch bag. Peter’s diving into Facebook Marketplace to hunt one down. I, however, remain blissfully off the social grid.

The day wrapped in classic river fashion: brilliant sunshine, cotton-ball clouds, and a stunning shoreline. We anchored with perfect timing, just as the skies opened up. Now we’re tucked inside Hazel, rain tapping the deck, enjoying a delicious dinner and the cozy hum of a well-earned pause.

And for those playing “Where’s Hazel?”, we’re currently anchored two miles from the Louisiana State Penitentiary. So if this turns out to be our last transmission… well, you’ll know why.

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A few glimpses of the quiet fog before sunrise, followed by a breathtaking morning light.

Sunrise finally found us, and what a glorious one it was. The most curious part? As you’ll see in the next photo, the sun rose due east while we were heading due south, a rare alignment on the winding Mississippi.

Quick update for everyone: thanks to our stop in Memphis, Tennessee, we were able to pick up the necessary cords, and now all our navigation equipment is fully operational. Hazel’s systems are at 100%, and we’re feeling confident moving forward

We were completely surprised to spot a hot air balloon drifting into view, and watching it float above the bridge tops was unexpectedly beautiful. Aside from the usual parade of tugs and barges, this passing boat was the first sign of human life we’ve seen in ages. I know in the last photo they look like tiny dots, apologies for the quality. But those specks are actually campers, and they mark the first sign of life on shore we’ve seen in weeks. After so much quiet, it was oddly comforting to spot them.

Up next: a few shots of the American Heritage, docked in Natchez, Mississippi, followed by the American Splendor. I have to say, there’s something deeply appealing about this older style of passenger ship. With its grand paddle wheel and intricate woodwork, it carries the spirit of a bygone era. Compared to the sleek, modern lines of the Viking ship, which can feel a bit sterile, this classic riverboat feels right at home on the Mississippi. It’s a vessel that truly belongs to the river’s story.

Another striking pair of bridges spans the Mississippi here, serving the city of Natchez. The older, more ornate structures steal the show, elegant in their design and rich with character, they’re easily the most beautiful of the bunch.

Just when we thought mast clearance wouldn’t be an issue further south, we hit a surprise: a powerline construction site stretching across the Mississippi, with lines sagging dangerously low, right into Hazel’s danger zone. We had to act fast, hugging the shoreline to pass beneath the highest arc near the tower. It was a tight squeeze, and the water was shallow, but far better to risk a soft grounding than a shocking encounter.

We aim to spot at least one record-breaking moment each day, and here it is: a staggering 42-unit barge formation (7 by 6), the largest we’ve ever seen, being pushed upstream by a powerhouse of a tug. What made it even more memorable? The captain at the helm was the first woman we’ve encountered on this journey, expertly navigating this colossal load.

Interestingly, every single barge in this flotilla was empty, as have 95% of the northbound vessels we’ve seen over the past three days. It’s a curious trend on a river that rarely repeats itself.

Wait, was that a sailboat? Could it really be the first one we’ve seen south of Cairo? Sure enough, there it was: anchored, still, and serene. The crew looked perfectly at ease, cozy and relaxed, as if the river had welcomed them home.

As we continued on, we caught a remarkable sight: evergreens growing straight out of pure sand along the riverbank. I didn’t think that was even possible. And then came the exclamation point of a glorious day, flat water, blue sky, and everything shimmering with quiet perfection.

This is lovely, but of course, there’s always one essential task that remains: laundry. Here’s Peter on the foredeck, carefully pinning up his clothes to dry. A humble moment in the rhythm of river life.

This is where the Red River meets the Mississippi, a quiet but significant confluence. In the background, you can spot the Red River Lock and Dam, standing sentinel just before the waters merge and flow onward together.