Goodbye to a Friend, Hello to a Cyclone

We reached Pez Vela Marina safely, tucked into the town of Quepos, Costa Rica. It’s an absolutely beautiful marina and an equally charming city. This is where we said goodbye to Steve Lewis. Having him aboard was such a gift, and watching him leave was harder than expected. With any luck, Hazel will get to welcome him back someday.

Hazel also received her international Zarpa, clearing her to depart Costa Rica with Hawaii as her next destination. I’m often asked what it costs to check a boat in and out of a country. The truth is that every country has its own rules and its own fees. For example, once you check into Panama, you’re free to travel anywhere within the country until you check out at your final port. Costa Rica works differently. You pay for each port you enter, and then you pay again for your final international checkout.

Using Costa Rica as an example, I’d say it’s on the higher end. Tourism is a major part of their economy, and 28% of the country is protected land to support eco‑tourism. (For comparison, the United States has 13% set aside.) With that emphasis comes a fairly elaborate process to ensure they collect the appropriate fees. Our check‑in cost $550, covering agricultural inspection, customs, various country fees, and passport stamps for the crew. Checking out cost $650, which included all of the above plus a fee for an additional port of call. Altogether, Hazel’s time in Costa Rican waters came to $1,200.

Our official journey to Hawaii began at noon on Tuesday, March 17, St. Patrick’s Day. Unfortunately, the luck of the Irish hasn’t shown up yet. The wind has been elusive, but change is happening as I write this. As you’ll see in the photos, we’re about to be swept into a very unusual cyclone. Cyclones simply don’t form in this part of the Pacific at this time of year. Leave it to Peter and Paul to find the one that does.

On the graphic, the stronger winds appear in yellow and orange, forming the eyewall and spiral bands, with speeds reaching around 50 knots. It seems to be building by the hour. As we’ve always said, nothing good happens after midnight, and this storm is expected to hit us with full force around 2 a.m. We’ve already prepared: a double reef in the mainsail and the storm sail deployed for balance.

At this point, we’re certain there will be no sleep, no meals, and plenty of bruises. But we’re equally certain that Hazel is up to the task.

---

Another mega‑yacht has slipped in right beside Bezos’s vessel, as if they all coordinated their parking spots. These mega yacht owners clearly travel in the same circles. And yes, Bezos’s KORU is still trailing us, faithfully keeping up with Hazel’s grand tour.

Steve at the helm, guiding Hazel up the coast under yet another breathtaking sunset.

Peter delivers again with another gorgeous Wahoo, and of course he’s wearing that bright shirt and those even brighter tennis shoes, the same combo that always has him dancing with his headphones on.

Approaching the entrance to Marina Pez Vela.

Hazel has slipped her lines and is officially on her way to Hawaii.

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/9dc351_2493a03099d741ac9316197800d52dbd/480p/mp4/file.mp4

Red sky at night is supposed to be a sailor’s delight, and we certainly had the red sky and the stunning sunset to match. But that gorgeous glow didn’t deliver the promised weather the next day.

Sunrise hinted at exactly what the day, and night, had in store for us. And even out in the middle of the Pacific, you still cross paths with giants. This one was a car carrier charging along at 18 knots.

Peter’s welcoming spirit is in full force, he’s managed to attract an entire little flock of birds to Hazel. Later, the newly expanded crew gathered on deck to take in a spectacular sunset. What we didn’t manage to photograph, but were lucky enough to witness from Hazel, were countless sea turtles and dolphins passing by.