The ocean does not care if you are having a good day or a bad day. It does not care if you are tired of the scorching heat or the torrential rains or the relentless wind and waves. This was the first thing we learned somewhere out in the Gulf. We are now around the twelfth day of this passage from Panama to Hawaii, roughly five thousand nautical miles of open Pacific to cross on Hazel with her crew of two. It has all become real. We are far from anything and anyone. Ahead of

When we last checked in, an ominous cyclone was trying to spin itself into existence right on top of us. Thankfully it never gathered enough energy to become the real thing. What it did produce was a patch of lively, confused ocean that kept us on our toes for a while. But all is well, and Hazel is pressing on. As I write this, we are 500 nautical miles offshore. That sounds like a long way until you remember Hazel still has another 4,000 nautical miles to go before she reach

We reached Pez Vela Marina safely, tucked into the town of Quepos, Costa Rica. It’s an absolutely beautiful marina and an equally charming city. This is where we said goodbye to Steve Lewis. Having him aboard was such a gift, and watching him leave was harder than expected. With any luck, Hazel will get to welcome him back someday. Hazel also received her international Zarpa, clearing her to depart Costa Rica with Hawaii as her next destination. I’m often asked what it costs